Remember Dachau

Today I spent the afternoon at the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site in Dachau Germany. 

As I approached the perimeter wall, a wall built of stone block topped with razor wire and peaked by guard towers at 50 foot intervals, I instantly felt the oppressiveness of the place.  I walked the entire wall from the outside, each step more foreboding than the last.  Upon turning into the entry avenue, I was surprised to find a quaint little community tucked in along the walls of the one of the most notorious places on earth, but there it was.  A few brick apartment homes jutting out perpendicular to the prison wall.  Each with their little gardens and pathways leading to people’s homes and presumably happy lives.  Considering the atrocities that have taken place on the other side of that wall, it was a disconcerting site.

Passing the houses I turned into the entrance of the memorial site.  It is a lovely winter day with snow on the ground and the sun shining brightly overhead.   I brace myself for what I am about to see, what I am about to feel, how I am about to be sickened by what I know my fellow man is capable of.  I forge ahead.  It is important to be here, to know this, to #neverforget

The self-guided tour begins by passing through the gate of the jourhaus (guardhouse) building.  Inscribed in iron are the words “ARBEIT MACHT FREI” or “work will make you free”. Once through the gate you overlook the roll call area, a huge open area where suffering and death occurred on a daily basis.  On this day, the open area was covered with snow.  It was cold and I, unlike them, was wrapped in a warm winter coat, hat, and gloves.  I have nothing to want for, yet here I stand in a place where so many have suffered.

I walked through the barracks and grounds and museum, but nothing prepared me for the crematorium.  I have no words for what I felt as I stepped foot into this place.  I will not go into detail, but this place was built for death, for death and destruction of people.  I could not complete this part of the tour.  I couldn’t willingly stay in a place built for death. 

My experience today was profoundly moving.  As I walked out the gates out of Dachau into a freedom that I often take for granted, it breaks my heart to know that the leader of the country in which I live is taking steps to persecute those whose religious view differ from his own.  And even more alarmingly, the Americans who are not yet up in arms over the #MuslimBan.  

I urge you to educate yourselves.  Look back, learn from history. We must never let this happen again.  #resist

Notes to a former self - Burning Man

A letter to the virgin burner I was:  

Okay, I don't want to freak you out or anything, but the next 5 days are going to change your life.  I don't mean in a little way either.   After this week you will find yourself head over feet in love, and about to embark on an incredible journey...I don't want to give the whole thing away just now, but trust me, err you. 

Just remember that you can trust completely and give up your need for control all at the same time.  It doesn't always come at a cost.   Open those eyes and see beyond yourself, don't keep getting trapped in your own experience, it is more limited than you know. There is a huge world out there ready to recieve you. Just say yes!  Oh wait you did - and I thank you. Carry On.

A letter to the sophomore burner I was:

Next year is going to suck. Try not to declare that it's your last time, otherwise you will be heckled for years when you keep coming back.   Oh after shitty year  3 (and 10 years later you completely forget why it was shitty, you just remember always saying that it was shitty - so it must have been shitty) it just keep getting better... At some point they become the "best ever yet" every year.  You win!

Año Nuevo

The TV told us that it was midnight and that the new year had arrived.  We were slow to reanamate from the dozy lull of the late evening but after a few seconds we all snapped into action.  Dave, fast to action, dashed toward the refrigeration unit extracted a bottle of chilled 2004 Dom Perignon Champagne.  In the same motion he peels the bottle from the forest green box, tossing it carelessly to the floor, rips the protective foil from the top and pops the cork out, all before crossing the 35 foot distance to the living room.  Glasses appear and instantly brim with bubbles as someone doles out the pale golden elixir.  clink, ding, giggle giggle, all glasses touch and simultaneously raise in celebration of arrival of what we all hope will be a fabulous new year.  

No Man's Ride - Day 1

Day One – SF, CA to Carson City, NV

Part 1 – MAD MAPS HQ

While the girls of MAD MAPS play motorcycle goddess’s for the TV film crew the sag wag crew pack up the truck behind the scenes. All the ladies are interviewed telling of their various roles

at MAD MAPS. The film crew wraps up office footage with the girls suiting up and saying good bye.

Part 2 – THE LEFFERTS’ LAIR

The girls are pleased to see all the bikes lined up curbside ready for them to mount up and ride away. Filming continues, goodbyes are said, motors ignite, and they’re off. The film crew follows close, careful not to miss a thrilling moment as the girls ride through the San Francisco Presidio and merge onto the fabled Golden Gate Bridge.

Part 3 – GOLDEN GATE OVERLOOK

A quick stop at the Golden Gate Overlook to bid farewell to both the film crew and the city of San Francisco. JR and Helli couldn’t bear to part with the crew at the overlook and decided to join in for the first day of the ride. More is better!

Part 4 – MARIN CYCLES

Girls rolled into Marin Cycles sporting their brand spanking new Suzuki motorcycles and hot Suzuki riding gear. All the MAD players extend sincere thank you to Suzuki and Marin Cycles for providing the bikes, making this adventure a reality.

Part 5 –THEY’RE OFF…TO LUNCH THAT IS

With less than 15 miles under their belts they stop for lunch. Being a “Moto Diva” really does create a monster appetite. The girls fuel up on food and the trip begins.

Part 6 – COMFORT ZONES

Everyone mounts up and rides out. A last minute route change implemented in hopes of minimizing traffic exposure, unfortunately it didn’t work. Outside of Sacramento the roads cleared up and spirits lifted. Lee Cole, who was kind enough to volunteer his truck for use as the sag wag, jumped aboard the M109 in Placerville and that’s all she wrote. A fistful of throttle on this bike is no match for the hills of the Sierra-Nevada’s, as Lee Cole arrived at the hotel a full hour before anyone else. The group, minus Lee Cole, moseyed up the foothills admiring the sun burnt mountains, barren except for parched grasses and sporadic stands of pine trees. The air crisp and fresh smelled of warm pine sap. The road twists and climbs, the building anticipation finally releasing in awe of Lake Tahoe’s Southern Shore. The road hugs the lake shore for miles eventually parting ways and heading down the other side of the mountains. Praise be to the Burgman, hands down the best bike to cultivate a beginner’s comfort and skill level. Diana, with all of twenty hours riding experience under her belt when the journey began, mounted the Burgman and within no time she was zipping around the mountain curves. On the Nevada side of the Sierra-Nevada’s the crew winds and wiggles down from grade to grade eventually setting sites on Carson City. The group reconvenes at the Best Western Carson City, unpacks the truck and heads in for a nightcap.

No Man's Ride - Day 2

Day Two – Carson City, NV to Baker, NV

JR & Helli gathered their strength and managed to part ways with the rest of the MAD crew; while sad to see them stay the group must push on. The girls gear up and head out on US 50, dubbed as the “Loneliest Road in America” by Life Magazine in July 1986. While the stretch of US 50 through Nevada is vast, expansive, and impressively desolate, it is also uniquely beautiful. Distant mountain ranges jaunt out of the horizon like broken glass. The road was long, hot, and completely wide open. Lee Cole and his faithful stallion (M109) now named tomtom broke from the group early and often. At some point AeLeah found that the SVS had no problem drafting tomtom and eventually passing tomtom. The Lee & AeLeah duo zoomed from stop to stop allowing themselves plenty of time for resting up while waiting for the rest of the crew.

The folks in Fernley, NV warned of sizable crickets on the roadway up near Austin, NV. Warnings heeded, heading east bound toward Austin NV. Approaching Austin for lunch there were some insects of great mass littering the roadway, but nothing that isn’t easily squished by a motorcycle tire or effortlessly avoided by a swerve. The MAD MAPS crew pulled into the International Café for a bite and more news of the Mormon crickets. The buggers are 2.5 to 3 inches long and don’t let vertical surfaces get in their way. Back on the road and a bit uneasy about the approaching cricket carnage that supposedly blankets the roadway. The road winds up and over a small pass and in the distance where the road meets the horizon, the surface of the road is noticeably red. The smell assaults the senses; the smell of cricket carnage is like that of soggy organic decay baking in a 450 degree oven. Lucky for the riders, the monster crickets don’t jump, they more or less scamper. The roadway dotted with wiggling, scampering crickets. The MAD MAPS girls don’t skip a beat. Heads up, throttles open they fly past the carnage happy to leave the Mormon Crickets of Austin NV far behind them.

AeLeah and Lee Cole pulled off at a casino to wait for the rest of the gang. The group reconvened and gathered their strength for the last 70 miles of day 2. AeLeah and Lee Cole rolled out first and the rest of the crew gabbed for a bit. By the time the B-crew hit Baker it was near dusk and the town had closed up for the night, save a singe bar. We met Rob Pemble and Brick (part two sag crew) at “Whispering Elms Campground” on the doorway to the Great Basin National Park. We parked the bikes and headed to the bar for a round of fun and then a round of relaxation. This is officially the MAD Crew at Max capacity; the 5 lovely ladies and 4 in the support crew.

No Man's Ride - Day 3

Day Three – Baker, NV to Grand Junction, CO

Early morning in Baker is beautiful in that ghostly vast sort of way. This was the first opportunity to check out the new support vehicle and trailer. All jaws dropped at the sight of black trailer wrapped in MAD MAPS, tomtom, and Suzuki logos. It looked perfect and further legitimized our endeavor. Carla bathed the bikes and Dave Cooper shuffled them off to the Sinclair for fill up before lining them up neatly in a row ready for takeoff. Cooper captured some early morning video footage assisted by Lee Cole. We bid our buddy Lee farewell, as he tearfully turned back to San Francisco and we rolled into Utah. The first hundred miles of Utah was brutal. Eastern Utah resembles the Nevada plains in its empty vastness; the key difference is Utah’s overabundance of traffic enforcement officers. Brick, a support member, was lucky enough to meet and greet Utah’s finest, lucky for him he was let go with a warning. The first stop was in Sipiro for a much needed refueling, Jenny emerged from the gas station with a bevy of energy drinks in various colors and flavors. All juiced up and ready to roll. Salinas City for a lunch stop at the Wolf Den Café. A quaint road-side burger stand boasting of the best tatter tots in town, and were they ever. Nothing prepares you for miles on the road like grease, salt, and crunchiness! Back on Hwy 50 East, just outside of Salinas City the scenery transformed into spectacular rock formations of red and white pillowed hummocks (what’re they?) topped with bacon bit boulders. Once again the road succumbed to nature and wound its way through the buttes and mesas.

One last gas up and sixty miles to go before bedding up in Grand Junction, CO for the night. Upon arriving at the hotel the ladies were met by NBC affiliate local Channel 5 news Grand Junction. Sporting their finest Suzuki gear the ladies gather with the trailer in the back and flirt about in front of the cameras for ten minutes, which later becomes a 30 second news spot. They describe MAD MAPS and the significance of riding across the county to attend the International Woman and Motorcycling Conference with authenticity in the journey. At the interviews conclusion the MAD Crew made a MAD dash for the swimming pool. As the crew unwinds from a great day of riding and the sun sets in Grand Junctions they reflect on the highlights of the journey so far. All the while preparing for an incredible ride through the Rockies at daybreak.

No Man's Ride - Day 4

Day Four – Grand Junction, CO to Pueblo, CO

CBS affiliate local Channel 8 News Grand Junction was the first on the scene to see the ladies off. Packed up suited up and ready to ride, Channel 8 rolled footage as the MAD MAPS crew cruised out of the hotel parking lot. Continuing eastbound as Hwy 50 departs the expressway and reclaims its twisty road roots. A slight deviation from the plan leaves part of the group in Montrose Colorado where Essa caught the attention of one of Colorado’s finest. After the exchange of personal information and complete explanation of the MAD Adventure he begrudgingly let her go with a warning. Outside of Montrose, Hwy 50 sneaks by the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park and into the Rocky Mountains. Rob Pemble found a great outdoor lunch spot near a creek in the foothills of the Mountains. Riders were all fueled up and ready to make the climb up and over Monarch Pass. Rain clouds along the peaks threatened to wash out the riders as they neared the pass. Not more than 30 seconds after Diana uttered, “I smell rain,” did the drops begin to fall. It wasn’t a wash out as predicted; all of 17 drops of rain fell, arguably the bikes’ second bath. Winding down out of the Rocky Mountains was a delight as the road hugged the banks of the Arkansas River. The descent from the mountains was spectacular, the road caught between craggy cliff walls to the right and the raging river to the left. The river led the road down and out of the mountains then took its leave as we reconvened in Canon City, Co.

Only 60 miles from the hotel from where we stood in Canon City and less than 6 miles from the Royal Gorge the group was at a quandary. So, as any tight woven group would, we split up. Jenny and AeLeah headed to the hotel to relax and the rest of us headed for the Royal Gorge. Carla took tomtom and headed to the south entrance while the others headed to the other side to film her coming across the “highest suspension bridge in the world.” At 1,053 feet above the Arkansas River, the bridge at Royal Gorge is in fact the highest. The camera was rolling and all eyes were on Carla as she made her way across the rickety wood slatted bridge. Somewhere about the middle she cut the engine and peered through the slats of wood at the thin blue line of the Arkansas River below. Just barely visible next to the river lies a train track; train rides in the gorge as well as tram rides above are included as part of the admission price. And if that weren’t enough, they offer bungee jumping: you are flung over the side, attached to a rubber band of the gorge, purely for entertainment purposes. Already having all the fun we could possibly have we took a pass and headed for the hotel^—all but for Carla, who stayed and visited the bottom of the Gorge.

It was spa day for the motorcycles, well two of them at least. The V-Strom and Burgman received the works, including an oil extraction, cleanse, and oil renewal. Both bikes came away from the spa treatment purring like kittens. Thank you pit team!

No Man's Ride - Day 5

Day Five - Pueblo, CO to Dodge City, KS

By the fifth day the MAD crew was running like a well-oiled machine. By 7:30 all the luggage is packed up and waiting outside ready to be packed into the truck. All helmets and windscreens cleared of bug remnants, tire pressure checked, bikes gassed up and ready for riding. Only thing left to do is to ride. At the AM debriefing the riders look over the planned route for the day including possible gas stops and reconnect points.

Day five promises an easy riding day, relatively flat and straight. Not much to speak of in the way of scenery, some farmland and a tree now and then. The group made great time. When talking of lunch possibilities we realized we were only an hour out from the day’s final destination: Dodge City, KS.

Gung-ho on getting into Dodge we rolled east. Outside of Garden City, KS the winds began to pick up a bit, the girls on the lighter bikes were visibly being tossed around, as was Brick on his high profile bike. Jenny cruising? on the marshmallow, (C50T) named for its cushy comfortable ride, didn’t seem to notice the wind as she blew by the group on her way to the hotel. We arrived at the Dodge House Hotel, from the outside sign it looked as if the Dodge House were home to the Hasidic Cowboy, but upon entering, it’s most certainly an extension of the YMCA. The lobby is pretty normal, with the exception of the occasional longhorn-end table and cow-upholstered chair. Upon exiting the lobby you enter the gymnasium, or covered courtyard, ringed by the guest rooms. The courtyard was kids dream complete with a basketball court, a volleyball court, a pool & sauna, a video arcade, and a foosball table. The front desk clerk assured us that the restaurant on site was worth eating at, so we did. Rob and Brick ordered a set of Dodge Balls for the table, the vegetarians wretched and gagged, but all and all they, in their deep fried goodness, were a big hit!

After feeding time the group again split, half to their rooms to enjoy the hypnotic vibrations of the basketball bouncing on the floor and the rest to downtown Dodge City to see the gunfight. Yup, a gunfight right there in downtown, aside from the Applebee’s the old west hasn’t changed much. The museum depicting Dodge City as part of the old west was a highlight, complete with a series of life size dioramas telling stories of the past. Back at The Dodge House Hotel two more oil changes took place, on the SVS and the C50T, both bikes received the full service oil and lube job courtesy of MAD MAPS chief mechanic and the Dave’s.

No Man's Ride - Day 6

Day Six - Dodge City, KS to Joplin, MO

The crew packed up early ready to “Get the Hell out of Dodge” The real urgency was in getting on the road early enough to avoid of the legendary winds of Kansas. At the AM briefing we were promised a long straight shot to Joplin, MO. For the first time since the beginning of the journey we’d be leaving Hwy 50 and picking up Hwy 440. As it turned out, the map gods again provided us with impeccable weather. As promised the route was straight, flat, and light on scenery. The star of the day was the Burgman—the only thing more comfortable in Kansas is a living room. There are at least 14 sitting positions on the Burgman Executive resulting in a very comfortable ride. All that and an adjustable windscreen. We heart the Burgman.

Just outside of Joplin, MO we deviated from the planned route to ride on the fabled Route 66. Having just completed the Route 66 MAD Map for Harley-Davidson, it was fitting that the map goddesses ride in on the road they so recently mapped. Just riding on Route 66 feels different, as if you are one of the chosen few to ride on a piece of American history.

Waiting at the hotel was AeLeah’s sister; she lives a couple hours outside Joplin, MO and drove up to encourage AeLeah on her trek across America. The group went their separate ways in Joplin, eating, drinking, and unwinding.

No Man's Ride - Day 7

Day Seven - Joplin, MO to Paducah, KY

At the AM debriefing the route masters assure the riders that day seven’s ride will be a good one. No problem getting outta Joplin, MO and on the road. The route started us off on a wide two-lane highway set on rolling hills and lined by tree stands. All of the riders were most certainly thinking about deer. As we traveled further east the dotted stands of trees deepened into forest, green and lush. Crossing into Kentucky was dramatic, first over the Mississippi River then the Ohio River; everything became a shade or two more green and even smelled green. The roads in Kentucky are made for riding with long sweeping curves and perfectly laid asphalt. The B-team crew made a stop at a gas station to stretch out the legs and admire the Kentucky greens, when Diana sniffed out the approaching rain. There was no rain, not for the MAD MAPS crew anyhow. The group all made it to the hotel with plenty of daylight left and another news crew waiting to get the story. The girls made a show out of arriving in Paducah on their motorcycles and the cameras caught all the action. Interviews complete, everyone suited up and took a dip in the pool.

No Man's Ride - Day 8

Day Eight - Paducah, KY to Sevierville, TN

Jenny headed out solo an hour before the rest of the crew. With plans to meet up with Patty, Rob, and Serena from the AMA by 4:00 PM in Sevierville, she headed out armed with a cell phone and a map. The rest of the group narrowed their collective sights on Deal’s Gap as it is a MAD MUST. Everyone as fresh as if it were Day One, we jumped back in the saddle and rode off toward the morning sun. Several minutes passed and so did the Tennessee border. Day Eight was a many miles sort of day, mostly on freeway. The idea was to rack up fast interstate miles and jump off at Maryville drop down US 129 into Deal’s Gap. Pulled into a scenic overlook, ditched the trailer, doubled up on bikes and did the Dragon! A great big thanks to Rob Pemble from the MAD MAPS crew for the Deal’s Gap Tee’s. At the top the crew posed for some photos and watched as the serious knee-dragging riders approached the landing zone. There was also some time to admire the “Tree of Shame,” a tree atop the Gap decorated with broken bits of bike plastic and gear from those who didn’t make all 318 turns necessary to reach the top. Special kudos go out to Dave Cooper who zipped through the twisties on the beastly Burgman. For the record: Mr. Burgman smoked the rest of the bikes, except for maybe Carla on the V-Strom.

After dealing with The Dragon the group worked their way toward Sevierville through the northwest section of Smoky Mountains National Park. Trees blanket the rolling hills of the Smokies creating a perforated lighting pattern over the road. The sun made its final stretch toward the west leaving the light long and full of color. The road meandered down along the streams path toward Pigeon Forge. Upon entering Pigeon Forge the transformation from quiet open wilderness to an out-of-the-box family playland is disheartening, and sudden.

The MAD crew reconnects with Jenny at the hotel, where she’d already wrangled in the AMA folks and settled them into the hotel. The evening was spent reminiscing details of the journey and realizing the goal was within 200 miles.

No Man's Ride - Day 9

Day Nine - Sevierville, TN to Athens, GA

The final leg of the journey was a perfect end to a perfect trip. In the morning the MAD MAPS crew joined forces with the AMA team from Ohio. Team AMA took an earlier start in order to get their 250cc bikes up and over the Smoky Mountains, while team MAD MAPS thought to enjoy the free Rice-Krispy breakfast for a bit longer. The MAD MAPS crew left as the air began to warm a bit, though knowing full well, that at the pass it would still be chilly. Layered up and ready to roll, the MAD MAPS crew hit the road and didn’t look back. A slow go cursing in and around the tight turns leading up to Newfound Gap.

We found the AMA folks hanging out in Cherokee, shopping for rubber tomahawks. With the group reunited, we made off on our final approach to Athens GA.

smoke

The light cuts through the window at a 90 degree angle. Exhaled smokes dances with swirling patterens in the piercing light eventually finding its way through the screened window

Excuse me is that your penguin?

I'd do a lot of stupid things in the company of your penguin, but mostly I'd like scuttle about in the dusty desert heat, hand-in-fin then dance until dawn.

Boiling bags of salty snot

The plastic bends softens in the tortuous whirl of the frothing bubbles. The green liquid inside continues to claw away at the confines of the Ziploc bag. Molecules heated to the point of rage gather and conspire to stick together forming their last defense against the vile juice contained inside it. Seeing the weakened molecules the mushy goop gathers its strength to continue its offense. Now in alliance with the arduous boiling bubbles the bag faces attack from all sides. The grueling attack continues, the bag twirls, reels, and spins to the point of exhaustion. Under the pressure the bag bursts - slime gushes out from the opening. The bag, empty of its snotty contents is left to the mercy of the now mingling liquids.

Holy Man?

Every year thousands of people make pilgrimages to sacred places for reasons of their own. Typically one reads about these pilgrimages in a holy context, but are all pilgrimages holy in nature? I too set aside a week each year in search of intellectual, spiritual, and social enlightenment. The destination remains the same Black Rock City Nevada. Every year me and about 50,000 other individuals gather in the vast emptiness of the northern Nevada desert for an event called Burning Man.

I compare this to a religious pilgrimage because there are some inarguable similarities. People pack up what’s important to them and venture off for a week of unknowable spiritual fulfillment. Each has its sacred location and each has its totem. So I ask how different is Burning man from other holy pilgrimages? At this point I broke to look up “holy pilgrimage” in Google since I have no idea what I’m talking about. The first hit was a burning man hit. I rest my case. I should mention that in my Google search I did misspell “pilgrimage”, but oh well.

I’ve read so many write ups about burning man and none of them accurately describe the event. Why; because the essence of burning man can not be captured in words. Defining burning man is like trying to define love. Though collections of adjectives can give the reader an idea of said concept, the reader cannot possibly comprehend its true meaning until he/she actually “feels” it for themselves.